Bouldering requires both problem-solving skills and muscular endurance. Photo courtesy of Zoe Nelson.
Starting at the young age of seven, Zoe Nelson began her climbing venture out of pure fascination for her parents’ own passion. Now, at the age of 15, Nelson has qualified for the 2024 USA Climbing Youth Nationals, taking place on June 22-23 in Salt Lake City, Utah.
“My dad had bought me a day pass to Center 45 for my 6th birthday, and then I did a summer camp when I was 7,” said Nelson. “I got put on the team and then I started doing competitions that next year and I haven’t stopped since.”
Center 45 is a local indoor climbing and fitness center. Many community members climb individually or with friends, and the center also sponsors youth climbing teams.
Making it to nationals is a multi-step process that consists of several different local competitions. Throughout the bouldering season, late September to early February, there are QEs—or qualifying events—and those who place top 26 in their category from those competitions are eligible for regionals. During the regional competition, the athletes are presented with four different climbs and have four minutes for each climb. The top 13 will go on to compete at divisionals, which will subsequently determine who will qualify for nationals. Nelson is part of the Southeast Division consisting of six states. Climbers compete in categories based on age and gender.
“You're trying to get top 13 in that to make it to the second day of that competition. It's the same format as Regionals,” Nelsen said. “Then, the top six from the second day make it to Nationals.”
Competing at such a high level involves a great deal of internal pressure, particularly when athletes have ambitious and challenging goals. However, Nelson has been able to achieve a healthy balance within her sport.
“My whole goal this past time was to climb like my first Divisionals because I had fun and I didn't know that I was gonna make it to Nationals,” said Nelson. “These past few years, I feel like I beat myself up more for not making it. Then, this year, I [chose to] have fun with it, and if I do make it, that's an added bonus. Before, I was just really focused on making it to Nationals.”
For Nelson, qualifying for Youth Nationals will not be a first time experience. At the age 8, Nelson began fostering a love for competitions and discovering the rewarding sensation of winning. Compelled her to push past her limits, Nelson was able to qualify for Nationals when she was 9, 10, 11, and 12.
“My second day at Divisionals, my first year climbing, I found out that I made it to Nationals without even trying,” said Nelson. “My coach comes out and he drops his bag and kneels down and opens his arms and I just remember running into his arms. He was so excited for me. I've just always remembered that as this special moment. He was genuinely so proud of me.”
To prepare for Nationals this spring and summer, Nelson will spend most of her Saturdays at climbing gyms located across the region in order to heighten her exposure to various different facilities, in addition to her routine training during the weekdays. She also values the art of cross training and enjoys running and lifting weights. Ultimately, Nelson’s goal is to win at Nationals, but in the meantime, she plans on making the best of the four remaining seasons she has left in the youth circuit.
“I don't want to give up on myself because I know what giving up feels like, and I don't want to feel like that again. I don't want to let myself do that and so that will push me to try harder,” said Nelson. “My coaches and parents and friends have also been inspirational to me and helped me keep my head straight. They push me when I need to be pushed.”
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