Wearing the Costume: “Wuthering Heights” Takes on a Modern Look

Katherine and Heathcliff stand side by side at a particularly heartbreaking burial, sharing the moment together in silence. While the grim expressions of the two characters shows the tension, the full scene was a turning point in the movie in terms of emotional depth. Photo Creds: NPR

Carrie Bradbury, Review Desk Lead

Classic literature has been a muse for movie producers for decades. From “Little Women” and “Pride and Prejudice” to “Atonement” and “The Great Gatsby,” Hollywood’s biggest stars have taken to the screen to bring to life some of the most memorable love stories and beloved characters from classic literature. Emerald Fennell’s “Wuthering Heights” is no exception in terms of talent, being the most recent adaptation of Emily Bronte’s book by the same name. “Wuthering Heights” has caught the attention of millions due to its provocative, emotional, and heartwrenching plot that takes place in a rundown, 19th Century Yorkshire moor cottage. 

While the book has been adapted into a movie multiple times before, Emerald Fennell brought a modern twist to the 1847 classic with her unique portrayal of main characters and intentional costume design. Main characters, Catherine Earnshaw and Healthcliff, along with minor characters Edgar and Isabella Linton, all showed slight variation from the descriptions provided in the book, allowing for the movie to be something completely of its own. Although the movie was at times hard to watch due to the large number of adult and gory scenes, Fennel made up for it by bringing in the dark romance element that is what made people love the book. The plot of “Wuthering Heights” was a rollercoaster, full of domestic abuse, sexism, and poverty, mixed with true love, wage gaps, and family bonds, all of which are topics that are still as relevant today as they were in the 1800s.

Fennell’s use of cinematography and scene setting brought the story to life, but what was most appealing and effective for storytelling was the costume design. Throughout the movie there were multiple costumes that strayed away from historical accuracy and towards more modern designs and fabrics. Despite this, the story still felt straight out of the 19th Century with women only wearing dresses and men draped in trench coats and dress pants. 

The movie began by establishing the setting and introducing the main characters, Catherine Earnshaw (Charlotte Mellington) and her drunken father (Martin Clunes). The small family lives on a Yorkshire moor, in an urban, rundown home placed on a barren, valley landscape with only one neighbor. It is easy to observe that the small family is incredibly impoverished and in debt, which is then made worse by Catherine’s father’s gambling addiction. The family has multiple maids who mostly clean and cook, but also spend time keeping Catherine company. Out of the three maids, the most influential is Catherine’s best friend, Nelly Dean (Vy Nguyen and Hong Chau), who plays a minor, but important role throughout the movie.

Catherine and Heathcliff spend the majority of their time together, often exploring the land around their house and only returning when the sun begins to set. The time spent together fostered their juvenile relationship and added tension to their relationship once adults. Photo creds: Neko Random

Costume design for all four characters was incredible. The first half of the movie, from the little historical knowledge that I have, seemed to be shockingly realistic. Mellington was costumed in a dress at all times, however there were some style differences between her night and day gowns. During scenes shot in the daytime, Mellington wore loose skirts that went from her waist to ankles, paired with a colorful blouse or billowy shawl, an outfit appropriate for both her age and economic status. During scenes filmed at night when Catherine went to visit Heathcliff she was dressed in pieces that would resemble today's night gown, however were made of lighter fabric and include more lace in order to tie in the historic element. As Catherine grew up, so did her clothes. While subtle, the movie weaves in costume changes, having her go from juvenile dresses to mature gowns, in order to show the change which occurs within Catherine. The costume design faded into the background as the plot thickened, but without the intentional style choices, the movie would have lost its originality and fallen flat. 

Catherine returns home from getting married. With a proud father to her right and a row of maids in front of her, the small crowd takes in her new look of wealth. Photo creds: Neko Random

The more shocking outfits which Catherine wears are in her older years. Catherine (Margot Robbie) has been living in poverty for her whole life. Her only friends have been Melly and Healthcliff, and she has spent the bulk of her time running around her abusive father, avoiding his drunken outbursts. All of this changes when she reaches the age that is appropriate for a woman at the time to marry, which was eighteen. Following her marriage, Robbie was dressed in elegant gowns with popping colors to symbolize her newly obtained wealth. The change in outfit highlighted both a change in the character's life, and possibly, a change in viewers’ perception of this character. No longer hiding under tattered clothing, tromping through the mud, and running around the moors' natural landscape, Catherine had transformed from young girl to woman.

Catherine and Healthcliff share a heartfelt moment after a particularly harsh night on the moor. Photo creds: Teen Vogue

It is easy to get lost in Catherine’s dynamic story and the costumes which Fennell chooses for her character, but Catherine is not the only one going through significant change in the movie. Heathcliff (Owen Cooper) is the most mysterious character within the story, showing little emotion and staying to himself unless with Catherine. When he was first introduced at the start of the movie it was immediately obvious that he was going to play a key role in Catherine’s story, though how was unknown until later in the movie. Movie viewers are introduced to Heathcliff at the same time that Catherine is. He is dressed in dirty, torn clothes that match his rugged personality. Catherine’s father offers Healthcliff to her as a gift, a family addition who shall be treated more like a pet than a sibling. Similarly to Catherine, as he grows up, his style changes to match his transition into adulthood. While the focus of the movie is on Catherine, it would be impossible to ignore the incredible effect Heathcliff has on every character and the movie's overall mood.

The scene when Heathcliff returns to the moor is full of drama and emotion. The mood of this scene is made even better by the use of fog, a realistic recreation of what moors typically looked like, and his elegant outfit which is a stark contrast to the tattered clothes which he wore before. Photo creds: Neko Random

Halfway through the movie, Heathcliff (Jacob Elordi) makes a dramatic exit from the moor, and then later returns as an entirely different person. Similarly to Catherine, Heathcliff gains wealth during his time away, which is blaringly obvious in the changes in his wardrobe. The change in outfit paired with his drastic character development can be described as the most basic kind of ‘glow up’. No longer running around others in fear, he makes himself heard amongst the other characters. While the use of his newfound control and status is at times overdone, it is overall an improvement for the character. By the end of the movie, it was easy to miss the old Healthcliff and despise the new one, despite the improvement in status and costume. 

Fennell did not hold back when she created these two characters. Between the change in actors and wardrobe it is hard to miss the multiple signs of character development. The movie strayed far from the original book, but not always in a bad way. Taking creative liberties with the costume design allowed for the movie to be easier on the eyes and a story of its own.